Posted by Ankita Srivastava | Posted in Face, Makeup Basics for Beginners | Posted on 09-07-2012
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Continuing with the Base Makeup Basics series, today I’ll be talking about the different tools for foundation application and some general tips to achieve an even, neat finish!
Lets start with the different tools you can use to apply foundation :
- Makeup Sponge : A small piece of cosmetic sponge can be used for foundation and works really well because it prevents excess application. The sponge removes all the excess product and gives a very neat finish. I’ve personally used The Body Shop sponge for a long time for applying my foundation with excellent results. The only downside is that the sponge absorbs some of the product leading to wastage! Also, you cannot really build up coverage while using a sponge beyond a certain point. Sponges are quite versatile in the sense that they can be used for liquid, cream, mousse as well as powder/compact foundations. I have some cheaper sponges as well but nothing beats the TBS sponge which is really smooth and gentle on the skin!
- Foundation brush : These are generally of 2 types ~ Flat profile paddle brush and Round profile stippling brush. Both brushes work great and it is a personal choice and the foundation formula which determines which brush works better! I have used both and I find that I get better coverage and finish when I use a stippling brush with certain foundations. Some recommendations for foundation brushes ~ Colorbar flat paddle foundation brush (available in stores for Rs 600), Inglot 21T flat paddle brush (Rs 1150), Colorbar Stippling Brush (Rs 1200), MAC 188 brush (Rs 2000), MAC 187 brush (similar to 188, just larger – Rs 3000), Sigma F80 Flat top Kabuki brush ($16.00).
- Fingers : A lot of makeup artists love using their fingers for application as the warmth of the fingers really works the product onto the skin giving a very natural finish. I use my fingers to apply and blend foundation many times especially the creamier ones that respond better to the fingertips. However when I need some extra coverage, I prefer to use a brush!
If you’re a newbie, I would recommend using fingers or sponge. I find sponge the easiest as it automatically removes the excess and makes application easier!
I own the following 3 Foundation brushes :
1. Inglot 21T flat foundation brush (Rs 1150) : The bristles are soft enough, it applies evenly and blends well. It does not shed on washing and is overall a good buy!
2. MAC 188 Duo Fibre Stippling brush (Rs 2000 , US$34.00) : It is a little small so it takes time to do the whole face but it gives a very good finish and coverage when done with patience.
3. Coastal Scents 518 Buffer brush ($14.95 = Rs 830 approx.) : I don’t really like this so much as it doesn’t feel as soft against the skin and I find that it absorbs a lot of foundation since its quite dense. I haven’t used it a lot since I didn’t like using the first few times though I’ve read some good reviews of this one. Its no longer listed on the website so it may have been discontinued.
2 brushes that I hope to try out and review in the future are – the much raved about Sigma F80 brush and the newly launched Colorbar brush!
How to apply foundation ?
There are some simple rules that one must stick to and following these alone makes the application smooth, even and neat! I have personally skipped/not paid attention to some of the points listed below in the past and realised how simple things can make a huge difference!
- Always moisturize before applying foundation. Ideally, do the whole Cleanser, Toner, Moisturizer routine. Let the moisturizer sink into the skin for 7-10 minutes and then apply primer. You can also rub an ice cube on your skin before moisturizing to tighten the pores and add a glow to the skin.
- Primer is not an essential but it does affect the finish and smoothness of application. It also helps makeup stay fresh longer. Read details on Primers HERE. Apply primer all over the face (excluding eye area and lips) and wait for another 5-7 minutes before applying foundation.
- Always apply foundation in daylight. This ensures that you do not overapply!
- Take out some foundation on the back of your palm, take out a small quantity at first especially if using a pump bottle.
- Using any tool of your choice, start applying foundation from the center of the face ~ on the nose, around the mouth and chin because this is where most people have natural pigmentation. Next, move on to the problem areas like a spotted forehead or acne marks on cheeks etc. Finish by blending at the outer edges of the face. Try to use very less product on areas that are clear and use product only on areas that need coverage, this results in a very natural look.
- Always apply foundation small strokes and in direction of hair growth which is generally downward. If you apply in the opposite direction, it will cause your facial hair to stick out.
- Do not rub foundation all over face in long strokes. Work on a small area at a time.
- Do not dot foundation all over face (the moisturizer routine) and then use your palms to massage it all in. This does not give a good finish!
- Work around the eyelids, lips and take care to avoid getting it in the eye brows. Some people like to apply foundation on the eyes too but I avoid it as it gives my eyes an ashy look and makes my shadows crease faster.
- Always start out with a small quantity of product, don’t pump out too much from the foundation bottle. You can always pump out more and apply if you need more coverage but its not always easy to tone out heavy/cakey application.
- If you’re using a sponge, using short gentle strokes and dabbing motion to blend. If you’re using a brush, do the same. Always moisten the sponge/brush with a face mist or plain rose water in a spray bottle. The brush should just be damp, not dripping wet. It helps in blending the foundation better!
- Do not forget to apply foundation on the neck and take special care to blend the foundation properly along the jawline.
- Set foundation with a light powder. If you have dry/combination skin, only powder the T-zone to control shine and leave the rest of the area as it is for a dewy finish.
- Do not use puffs/sponges to apply the powder, use a fluffy brush. Using a puff can cause the foundation to transfer onto the puff and disturb the even finish that you’ve worked so much to achieve!
Check out this Video Tutorial by Lisa Eldridge on Foundation Basics :
Also read :
- Part 1: Face Primers | How to choose the right primer | How to apply Primer | Primers in India
- Part 2 : Types of Concealers | How to choose the right under-eye concealer | Concealers in India
- Part 3 : How to apply Stick concealer ~ Step-by-step picture Tutorial
- Part 4 : Types of Foundation | How to choose the right foundation for your skin type
Disclaimer : This post is accurate to the best of my knowledge. All information presented here has been written by me and not picked up from the web (Except for the video ). Kindly do not copy or reproduce the information given in this post.