Posted by Corallista | Posted in Eyes, Makeup Basics for Beginners, Tutorials | Posted on 28-06-2012
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I’m glad all of you are enjoying this series on Base Makeup Basics! In the previous post, I talked about the different types of concealers and how to choose the right concealer for yourself. Today I’m showing you a simple tutorial on how to apply concealers, in particular stick concealers which can be a little tricky to blend sometimes because of their dry texture. This post also contains some general guidelines for applying all types of concealers, I hope you will find them useful!
I am using L’Oreal Paris Infallible Concelaer in 04 Golden Beige for this tutorial.
Its really important to apply the concealer correctly otherwise its honestly of no use! When not applied properly, it can result in blotchy, patchy appearance which looks worse than no concealer at all! There are some general guidelines which need to be followed with concealer application but much of it comes with trial and error. Some concealers work better when blended with fingers while some work better with a damp brush. Its best to try out both ways and determine which gives a more even, uniform finish.
Some general tips for concealer application :
- Always use an under eye cream! It moisturizes the under eye area, helps in blending the concealer properly and prevents it from getting dry or patchy! If you have very dry/ageing under eyes, use a richer cream like the Aroma Magic under eye cream but do not use too much else it will end up causing your concealer to crease. Apply the amount that gets absorbed completely and there is no slippery after-feel left behind. If you have normal/oily under eye area, use a gel based eye cream.
- Always always ALWAYS set the concealer with powder otherwise it WILL crease and settle into lines. Use a fluffy brush and dust some translucent powder or your regular compact lightly to set the concealer. Do not dab at it with a sponge or puff. Use light strokes with a fluffy brush.
- Apply in the areas of maximum pigmentation first and blend. Once blended, move away from the mirror and see if you need more coverage. If you do, dab some product in the area that seems more shadowy and blend. Apply in small quantities in small areas instead of applying loads of product in the entire eye area.
- If you’re going to be wearing eye shadow, you can skip the lids but if you’re going bare on the lids, conceal that area as well. Applying concealer under the brow bone acts like a highlighter for clean, simple looks.
- Take special care if you’re going for a special occasion like a party or wedding where you are likely to be photographed a lot in flash. Some concealers show up insanely white in pictures, sometimes the powder used to set the concealer ends up looking ghostly so make sure to use a powder that does not contain white pigments like zinc oxide or titanium oxide (typically found in products containing SPF)
- Be gentle with your eye area whether its applying or removing makeup. Do not pull or tug at the skin, always use light dabbing motions instead of rubbing. The skin around the eyes is 6 times thinner than the skin of the rest of the face and hence needs a light hand.
Simple tutorial on how to apply Stick Concealer :
Stick concealers have the driest texture among all concealers and while they are very convenient for spot concealing blemishes and dark spots on the face, they can be a little tricky to blend in the under eye area. Getting them to blend properly in the eyes involves the simple trick of moisturizing well first so that the product doesn’t tug at the delicate under eye area. Once the blending is mastered, stick concealers prove really handy especially during travelling and for touch ups!
I don’t have a lot of pigmentation under the eyes but I have very thin under-eye skin so my veins show through a lot especially one that lines my under eye area like a boundary. The best concealer for me is probably an illuminating one but for the tutorial, I am using a stick concealer.
Step 1-2-3 : Moisturize! I’m using Chambor Eye renewal Cream here, its creamy but not too heavy and thus absorbs well into the skin with light massage. Using very light pressure to massage the cream into the skin. I generally go in clockwise or anti-clockwise motion while massaging the cream. Don’t forget to apply the cream over the lid as well covering the entire area around the eyes. If you have puffiness, use a cream like MAC Fast Response Eye cream that reduces under eye bags and puffiness.
Step 4 : Once the cream is absorbed fully, apply the concealer as shown in the next step.
Step 5 : Apply the concealer first in the most pigmented areas in small dots. Most women have the darkest regions in the inner 1/3rds and outer 1/3rds with a relatively less pigmented area at the center. If you need to apply the concealer in the entire eye area like me, gently spread the dots to cover the entire area around the eye with your finger tips/brush.
Step 6-7-8 : Blend using the third finger (as it applies the least pressure). Make sure to use light dabbing strokes and not long rubbing strokes. Rubbing strokes not only harm the delicate skin around the eyes but also cause the product to sheer out and transfer onto finger. Fingers are the best tool for stick concealers (unless its a very creamy stick concealer) as it warms up the product and helps it blend better.
Step 9 : Step back and see if you need more coverage. If you do, apply a small amount of concealer in the area that needs it and blend. I feel I need a little more coverage in the inner corner and outer corner so I will apply some product only in these areas and blend with my third finger.
Step 10 : Once all the pigmentation has been covered up well, set the concealer lightly with powder using a fluffy brush. The powder will prevent the concealer from creasing.
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